In case anyone was interested….
Friday July 22nd 2011
Follow the link
http://kelbytraininglive.com/light-shoot-retouch
Don’t miss your chance to see the most requested, most anticipated live tour of 2011! Scott Kelby, award winning author of The Digital Photography Book and Editor of Photoshop User magazine, brings one of his all-time most popular Online classes to life in this amazing day where you learn it all; the lighting, the shooting, and the retouching, all live as it happens.
You’ll see everything unfold from scratch in each session, with different lighting set-ups and looks, as Scott starts with an empty stage, and then puts together the lighting for a live portrait shoot.
You’re right there as he takes you through the entire shoot, tweaking the lighting and working with the models, then he takes those very same images into Photoshop where he shares his very latest portrait retouching techniques, so you can see exactly how it’s all done from start to finish.
Hello again,
This is being sent to the contact emails I found for photography clubs in the greater Vancouver area. I am hoping you will pass this on to your members and/or put it in the announcement section of your club’s website.
I sent out a reminder on this a couple of months ago, but wanted to remind people again now that we’re closer to the course date. At time of writing, the course is about 50% full (class sizes are small).
d. carlin
This is regarding a course series on creating digital slideshows (and specifically using ProShow Gold). The course spans 3 days (June 18, 25 & 26). Each section can be taken by itself if people find there is one area they are more interested in.
AN100 is new for this year. AN101 and AN102 now assume that the student is familiar with the basic operation of Proshow Gold.
For more information on this course, visit the course site where you can enroll online (pay with credit card, or pay-by-mail options available):
http://courses.photoclans.net/AN101.php
Animatography: Storytelling in the Digital Age
June 18: AN100 – ProShow for Beginners: this day long course focuses just on ProShow Gold and is aimed at those who feel they are still learning the software. The goal is to gain a better understanding of how to use the software and to be on a more even footing when they meet more experienced students in the subsequent sessions of the series.
June 25: AN101 – Slideshow Physiology: This session is about being more efficient at creating shows. We look at some of the more advanced features of ProShow Gold to make better use of the software. The course is aimed at helping students develop a consistent workflow for themselves that allows them to create shows more quickly and with less frustration. We use techniques adapted from screen-writing to solve the two greatest problems often facing slideshow artists: “How do I start a story?” and even more important: “When do I stop?”
June 26: AN102 – Slideshow Psychology: This session looks more at the “soft skills” in creating a show. AN100 and AN101 are more about the mechanisms of putting a show together. AN102’s goal is to get the slideshow artist thinking more about how their show affects their audience, and looking at techniques that will engage your audience’s eyes, ears and brains. (and avoid the dreaded “death by slideshow”) We look at a few more ProShow Gold tips, story archetypes, the psychlogical effect of transitions, the effect you choice of music has, and how thinking about who your audience is and how they will watch your show should influence your choice of images you use and how you display them.
The course is a mix of lecture and practice sessions. Students are encouraged to bring a laptop with PSG installed to the course and work on a project during the workshop portions. If time permits, and the end of AN102, we do a “student film festival” were we review the student projects for feedback and questions.
Again, the course site is:
http://courses.photoclans.net/AN101.php
Just playing with 5 shot HDR and Photmatix… thought that it came out pretty neat…
Playing with depth of field
For immediate release to your members:
As of April 1, we’ve started taking enrollment for the next run of our course series on the creation of digital slideshows: “Storytelling in the Digital Age”. The series consists of three separate 1 day courses.
Course web page: http://courses.photoclans.net/AN101.php
The courses are offered over two consecutive weekends (June 18, 25, and 26) and will be held at the Best Western Coquitlam Inn. Students may enroll for any cominbination of days that meets their needs. The price per day is discounted for those students taking more than one day.
The course series teaches the creation of digital slideshows, but is more than just learning how to use software. Students are also taught the importance of workflow, learn techniques from creative/screen writing that can help them create their shows, and learn how the various treatments of images influences the audience’s interpretation of the show. We also review the various options available for sharing shows, be it PC playback, streaming web video, DVDs, etc. and how the choice in sharing technology can have a bearing on the structure and nature of your show.
The course attempts to get students thinking more creatively and putting more thought in the “story” side of their presentations. For those students who have laptops, they are strongly encouraged to bring them along and apply what they’ve learned during the workshop portions where they can get their questions answered while the instructor is present.
The series…
Based on feedback from course runs last autumn, we’ve added a 3rd day: AN100 – Proshow Gold for Beginners: This course is for those who are just learning the software. This one day course is focused solely on learning the ProShow application starting with project creation, moving on to placing images, applying basic transforms, selecting transitions, using titles and captions, adding audio soundtracks and ending with final output of your show. The course emphasizes a “learning by doing” approach as students create a show in the class. This helps the new user be on an even footing with more experienced users in the other two sessions.
The other two segments are:
AN101 – Slideshow physiology: this course focuses on workflow and the act of creating a slideshow. We learn the solution to the common problem: “I don’t know where to begin!” (those 5000 vacation photos from your last trip to Europe?) and cover the fundamental elements of a show’s structure. Mixed in with the “how” to create a slideshow, we also look at some more advanced features of Proshow when it comes to improving title effects, transitions, animation and layering of images in a show — many effects you see in shows made by Producer can still be done in Gold! The student applies what they learn as they build a show during class.
AN102 – Slideshow Psychology: This course steps beyond the simple mechanical creation of a show and starts to examine those elements that influence your audience’s emotional response to your show. These are the “soft skills” that slideshow artists often overlook when creating their shows. We look at some of the symptoms of “death by slideshow” and how to avoid them. We also start to think of shows in terms of their “story archetype” and how this helps us with image selection and sequencing. We also look at various ways of sharing your show and how each format should have an impact on the types of images you use and how you structure your show. Those continuing from AN101 will look at their shows in this new light and continue to improve the look and visual impact of their show. And we still have some advanced tips and tricks for ProShow Gold to share!
For more information, times, and pricing, go to courses.photoclans.net and look for the “Animatography 100 Series”. (direct course link: http://courses.photoclans.net/AN101.php)
If there are any other questions, feel free to contact the course instructor: derek.carlin@gmail.com
Class sizes are small, and the last two runs of this course have sold out. Students can pay online (credit card via PayPal), or by mail.
Hi All,
I thought this would be of interest to you.
Thanks to Larry Citra of the Bridge Lake Photo Group for the information Q & A’s
The Big Test …………
(you will find the answers at the bottom of the post)
1. Which is the largest lens opening or aperture, f-4 or f-22?
2. You get more depth of field with a small aperture ……… (meaning a smaller hole – see above)
True or False?
3. Which lens gives you the greatest apparent depth of field, a 28 mm lens or a 300 mm lens?
4. When you move your lens closer to the subject, depth of field decreases. If you want to maintain maximum depth of field in your shot at that distance, what would you do?
5. There are 3 things that influence depth of field in a photograph, name 2.
6. Which lens has the greater field of view (not to be confused with depth of field), a 135 mm or a 500 mm?
7. If you are trying to freeze action in a shot and you can’t get a fast enough shutter speed (assume that your aperture is already wide open), what can you do to get a faster shutter speed.
8. When taking a hand held shot with an 70-300 mm zoom lens set at 70 mm, what is the slowest shutter speed you can safely use and still be sure of maintaining a sharp image? What would the slowest shutter speed be if you had the lens set at 250 mm.
NOTE: Assume the lens does not have Image Stabilization or Vibration reduction.
9. Give 2 ways of over-exposing a photograph?
10. Give 2 ways of under-exposing a photograph?
*********
Answers:
1. Answer: f-4 is the larger lens opening, (the smaller the hole, the larger the number).
2. Answer: True – the smaller the hole, the greater the depth of field (the smaller the hole, the smaller the aperture, allowing less light to reach the sensor).
3. Answer: a 28 mm or wide angle would give more depth of field than a 300 mm lens no matter where your point of focus (what you are actually focused on) might be.
4. Answer: You would increase the f-number (make the hole smaller). If you wanted to maintain “MAXIMUM” Depth of Field, you would use the smallest hole available.
5. Answer: The 3 things are: 1. Aperture Size 2. Focal length of the lens ( i.e. 28 mm, 200 mm, 500 mm and so on) and 3. Lens to subject distance.
Pick 2
6. Answer: A 135 mm lens has the greater field of view. Wide angle lenses have a wide angle of view and telephoto lenses have a narrower field of view.
7. Answer: Switch to a higher ISO setting, this will allow you to choose a faster shutter speed by making the sensor more sensitive to the light entering the lens.
8. Answer: It would be 1/70th of a second when that lens is set at 70 mm and 1/250th of a second when the lens is set at 250 mm. To calculate this you use the reciprocal of the focal length you are using, or 1 over (1/focal length) the focal length you are using. A vibration reduction (VR) or image stabilized (IS) lens would allow you to reduce your shutter speed by 2 to 3 stops (depending on the lens) and still be able to get a shake free handheld shot.
question # 8 (more info) , which is all about safe handheld shutter speeds and how to determine this. It was pointed out that sensor size has an effect on the focal length printed on the lens and the actual focal length that is being used.
Most DSLR’s have sensors that are smaller than full frame (‘Full Frame’ means the area covered by the sensor is the same size as that covered by a 35 mm negative or slide or an area of 36 X 24 mm which is approximately 1 inch by 1 & 1/2 inches). These smaller (or cropped) sensors have what is called a ‘Crop Factor’ or magnification factor. This factor is usually between 1.4 and 1.6 depending on the camera make/model. (see your camera manual)
This means that the focal length of any lens you have attached to your camera is multiplied by that crop factor …………. which means the focal length numbers printed on the lens barrel and the actual focal length in use are not the same. For example, if you are using a 70 – 300 mm lens with a camera that has a 1.5 crop factor, the actual focal length is 105 -450 mm (or 70 x 1.5 = 105 and 300 x 1.5 = 450)
You should be aware of this when you are trying to determine the slowest shutter speed that can be safely used when handholding with that lens/camera combination.
For example the safest handheld shutter speed for a camera with a 1.5 crop factor using a 70 – 300 mm lens set at 300 mm, is 1/450th of a second or 1 over the actual focal length of the lens, which includes the 1.5 crop factor.
…………………… 300 mm (focal length marked on lens) times 1.5 (crop factor) equals 450 mm (the actual focal length) and 1 over 450 mm converts to a shutter speed of 1/450th of a second.
I hope this is not too confusing as it is an important consideration when using your camera handheld to avoid camera shake. Note that camera shake accounts for about 9/10ths of all blurry images!
9. Answer: To overexpose a photograph (and you might want to do this on purpose sometime!) you would either pick a slower shutter speed by changing from, say, 1/250th of a second to 1/125th of a second, which would slow the shutter speed down by 1 stop, allowing the shutter to stay open longer and allowing the light entering the lens to hit the sensor for a longer period of time. Or you could pick a wider aperture (remember: the larger the f-number the smaller the hole), for example changing from f-11 to f-8, making for a larger hole which would allow more light in, which would overexpose by 1 stop.
Note: You would have to have your camera set on Manual to do this.
10. Answer: You would do the opposite: Change the shutter from 1/250th to 1/500th (1 stop shorter), or change the aperture from f-11 to f-16, thereby making the hole smaller …………………… all on Manual of course!
NOTE: You can over/under expose while in Auto/Program mode, Aperture priority/Shutter priority mode by using the Exposure Compensation feature on your camera. (see your operating manual)
Another NOTE: Memorizing the shutter speed sequence and the f-stop sequence will greatly improve your understanding of, and your ability to manipulate these settings, in a meaningful way, on your camera!!!
*********************
Which means…………….. If you don’t take the time to learn these concepts you will effectively be …………
“Up aperture creek without a buck to buy a paddle”!!!
Let me know your thoughts of what these shots are of? I will share in a few days.
Oh yes and there is no photo-shopping done.
********
OK… only one comment and no ideas… oh well so I will share that these photos 1st and 3rd ones were taken through the windshield of my truck on a frosty morning and such a neat artsy design and the 3rd was also shot through the tinting to give it the blue shading.
The center one was taken at a very shallow horizontal view of the roof of my truck, of the crystal icy snow….
I have attached a document explaining the competition and here are some other guidelines.
This is a DIGITAL competition and you can EMAIL me your entries to rcphotos@telus.net
The club can only enter 6 photos – so each member should submit only ONE image – we shall then go through all the images at our meeting on
If I haven’t received 6 entries by the 9th of January, we will not enter the competition – so please do not bring your photos to the meeting – they MUST be emailed prior to January 9th!
If you have any questions, please let me know.
I will post all this info on the blog as a reminder for everyone.
Hope you all had a great Christmas and a stellar New Year!
Thanks!
Lets have some fun with the competition and see what our imaginations can come up with!!!!!!Maryann
ALTERED REALITY COMPETITION (Digital) – JANUARY 20th, 2010
Images must be heavily manipulated and obviously creatively enhanced including composites, creative filters etc. These images are not meant to look like a regular photograph.
Club Entries: 6 photographs (digital images or prints, depending on the competition) from six different club members may be entered into each competition.
Digital Images:
1. Images must be sized to no more than 1024 pixels on the long side for horizontal images and no more than 768 pixels on the long side for verticals. High quality JPEG, preferably in the sRGB colour space.
2. Correct orientation for viewing — images will be shown as submitted and will not be resized, rotated, or adjusted.
3. Naming convention for Clubs and Individuals. Name of Photographer- image entry #-Title of Image.jpg e.g, JohnSmith-1-Sunset or JohnSmith-2-Duck
Wow the last meeting of the year has come and gone . but what happend at the meeting ?
We had a guest . Wes Burgen.
heres a little bit about him. he was born young and as time passed he got older . and he joined Loins Gate camera club in 1969 . And on december 14 2010 he came to speek at our club .
he came to share with us a presentation called Expoure for digital photography . he started of with some questions . who never shot film? and asked who uses editing soft wear ?
the presintation started with , there are two types of photographers. The snap shooter and the manipulator. Wes shared how film and slided were of the the first type of shooter . once the shot was taken that was it . but the manipulator and start to change things as soon as the picture shows up on the view finder ( previeu screen)
He stated the cameras look simular and this is by desighn . but it was said on the digital front we need to read the manual . Yes RTFM. Read The Factory Manual . ( this is my acromin )
the film rules for shooting were shared .
we relied on the light meter .
use a gray card .
The zone system
over expose by 1 to 2 strops for snow .
dont shoot between 10 and 2 .
expose for high lights and develop for shadows .
then Wes made a bold statement . These rules dont need to apply for digital . WOW
With digital we can see the shot the moment its taken . use the history graph and use the high light clipping mode ( the blinkies )
With all of this we have no excuss for bring home a improply exposed shot .
Good exposure .
A correctly exposed photo should have detail in all areas and have No blocked out shadows and noblowen out high lights .
Wes then shared wit hus the 3 or 4 metering modes . this will be a blob for the next time i go blogging .
Averaging mode
Spot metering
Center weighted
Evaluative metering .
the coles notes on this was the metering mode will not a large affect on the exposure of your shot , but were you point the camera will .
if your metering spot is pointed at a dark area the photo will loose light details and the inverse is true too.
but what if we push the shutter down half way and then move the camera . we can strt to change things right there .
On the Histogram. he discussed how the left hand side is is the darks and the right hand side is the light parts of the shot and how the histogram is 256 little points of sampleing .
then on to ISO
we were showen digital noise and how to find it in photos shot at over 4000 iso.
Raw. how raw shooting gives us more to work from for all parts of manipulating.
and how some jpeg shots will apply or may apply auto white balance , compresson, and will change the exposure . the long and the short of raw and Jpeg was shoot in raw . .
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